Sunday 28 November 2010

Devilled kidneys

This little treat came about after some pressure selling at the Fowlmere farmers' market (2nd Saturday of the month in the village hall). I was actually shopping for mutton neck to make some broth, but someone had beaten me to it. As I was turning to leave the stall, the farmer asked "Would you like some lamb kidneys?" I hadn't made devilled kidneys for an age,  so snapped them up for £1.

The "devil" in the kidneys comes from mustard and cayenne pepper, and is mellowed a little by a splash of cream to finish the sauce. I served them with creamy mashed potatoes, cavolo nero, and swede, but they take just 5 minutes to cook so could be served with fried bread or toast for a quick snack. The following recipe is from The River Cottage Meat Book and serves 2:


  • 4 lamb's kidneys, white core removed
  • fat or oil for frying
  • small glass sherry
  • 1 tbsp white wine vinegar
  • Worcestershire sauce
  • large pinch cayenne pepper
  • 1 tbsp hot English mustard
  • 1 tbsp double cream
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper
Cut the kidneys into quarters and fry in a little hot fat for a minute or so to brown them. Add the sherry, then a splash of wine vinegar, the Worcestershire sauce, cayenne pepper and mustard, salt and black pepper. Give it a good stir, and let it bubble and reduce until syrupy. Add the cream and reduce a minute or two more. The total cooking time should be around 4-5 minutes. Check the seasoning, adding more mustard or cayenne if you think it needs it. Serve right away.

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